TY - BOOK AU - Tulloch,Carol TI - The birth of cool: style narratives of the African diaspora SN - 1474262864 AV - E185.86 .T85 2016eb U1 - 305.896/073 23 PY - 2016/// CY - London, UK, New York, NY PB - Bloomsbury Academic KW - African Americans KW - Social life and customs KW - Black people KW - Clothing KW - Fashion KW - Social aspects KW - Clothing and dress KW - Self-perception KW - Race identity KW - African diaspora KW - Noirs américains KW - Mœurs et coutumes KW - Noirs KW - Perception de soi KW - Aspect social KW - Identité ethnique KW - Africains KW - Pays étrangers KW - Fashion & society KW - bicssc KW - DESIGN KW - bisacsh KW - HISTORY KW - Africa KW - General KW - SOCIAL SCIENCE KW - Anthropology KW - Cultural KW - Discrimination & Race Relations KW - Minority Studies KW - fast KW - Beauty and Fashion KW - ukslc KW - Electronic books N1 - Includes bibliographical references and index; Introduction: This Time it's Personal -- Angel in the Market Place : The African-Jamaican Higgler, 1880-1903 -- "We Also Should Walk in the Newness of Life" : Individualised Harlem Styles of the 1930s -- "All of Me" : Billie Holiday -- "My Man Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something" : Malcolm X -- You Should Understand, it's a Freedom Thing : The Stoned Cherrie-Steve Biko T-shirt -- Here : The Haunting Joy of Being in England -- Coda N2 - "It is broadly recognized that black style had a clear and profound influence on the history of dress in the twentieth century, with black culture and fashion having long been defined as 'cool'. Yet despite this high profile, in-depth explorations of the culture and history of style and dress in the African diaspora are a relatively recent area of enquiry. The Birth of Cool asserts that 'cool' is seen as an arbiter of presence, and relates how both iconic and 'ordinary' black individuals and groups have marked out their lives through the styling of their bodies. Focusing on counter- and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of black identity. From the gardenia corsage worn by Billie Holiday to the work-wear of female African-Jamaican market traders, through to the home-dressmaking of black Britons in the 1960s, and the meaning of a polo-neck jumper as depicted in a 1934 self-portrait by African-American artist Malvin Gray Johnson, this study looks at the ways in which the diaspora experience is expressed through self-image. Spanning the late nineteenth century to the modern day, the book draws on ready-made and homemade fashion, photographs, paintings and films, published and unpublished biographies and letters from Britain, Jamaica, South Africa, and the United States to consider how personal style statements reflect issues of racial and cultural difference. The Birth of Cool is a powerful exploration of how style and dress both initiate and confirm change, and the ways in which they expresses identity and resistance in black culture"-- UR - https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=1104188 ER -