The chemistry of fragrances : from perfumer to consumer / edited by Charles Sell.

Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume industry in an informative and engaging style, with contributions from leading experts in the field. The book begins with a historical introduction and covers all aspects of the development process - from customer brief to producing a fragrance including; * Ingredients acquisition * Ingredient design and manufacture * Design and analysis of fragrance * Sensory aspects including odour perception * Psychological impact of fragrance * Technical challenges * Safety An updated section on the measurement of fragrance discusses the role of senses in marketing consumer products. This book will appeal to anyone with an interest in the perfumery business and includes an extensive bibliography to enable those interested to explore the field further. It also comes complete with a selection of colour illustrations and a fragranced page.

Previous edition published: 1999.

Includes bibliographical references (pages 313-319) and index.

Glossary -- 1. The human relationship with fragrance / Linda Harman -- 2. The history of aroma chemistry and perfume / David H. Pybus -- 2.1. Early use of fragrance -- 2.2. The age of chivalry -- 2.3. The age of alchemy -- 2.4. The age of discovery -- 2.5. The age of revolution -- 2.6. The age of empire (nineteenth century) -- 2.6.1. Technique -- 2.6.2. Structured perfumes, and use of synthetics -- 2.6.3. Industrialisation and 'massification' -- 2.7. The age of fashion (twentieth century) -- 3. Perfumery materials of natural origin / Charles Sell -- 3.1. Perfumes and odours in nature -- 3.1.1. Introduction -- 3.1.2. Biosynthesis -- 3.2. Extraction of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.2.1. Expression -- 3.2.2. Distillation -- 3.2.3. Solvent extraction -- 3.3. Adulteration of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.4. From natural to synthetic -- References.

4. Ingredients for the modern perfumery industry / Charles Sell -- 4.1. Economic factors affecting perfume ingredient production -- 4.2. Perfume ingredients derived from terpenoids -- 4.2.1. Introduction -- 4.2.2. Five key terpenoids -- 4.2.3. Feedstocks -- 4.2.4. Pinene pyrolysis -- 4.2.5. Pinane pyrolysis -- 4.2.6. The Carroll reaction -- 4.2.7. The Claisen rearrangement -- 4.2.8. Prenyl chloride -- 4.2.9. The Ene reaction -- 4.2.10. Elegance, a four-step process -- 4.2.11. Hemiterpenoids -- 4.2.12. Acyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.13. Cyclic monoterpenes -- 4.2.14. Menthol -- 4.2.15. Bicyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.16. Sesquiterpenoids -- 4.2.17. Cedarwood -- 4.2.18. Sandalwood -- 4.2.19. Diterpenoids -- 4.2.20. Ambergris -- 4.2.21. Ionones and related compounds -- 4.3. Musks -- 4.4. Perfume ingredients derived from benzene -- 4.5. Perfume ingredients derived from toluene -- 4.6. Perfume ingredients derived from phenol -- 4.7. Perfume ingredients derived from naphthalene -- 4.8. Perfume ingredients derived from aliphatic materials -- 4.9. Perfume ingredients derived from cyclopentanone -- 4.10. Perfume ingredients derived from dicyclopentadiene -- 4.11. Conclusions -- References.

5. The structure of an international fragrance company / David H. Pybus -- 5.1. The business-getting chain -- 5.2. The supply chain -- References -- 6. The perfume brief / David H. Pybus -- 6.1. Brief for Eve, prepared by Business Scents Ltd -- 6.1.1. Background -- 6.1.2. Product range -- 6.1.3. General -- 6.1.4. Fragrance -- 6.1.5. Timescale -- 6.1.6. Brief recipients -- 6.1.7. Price -- 6.1.8. Production -- 6.2. Toxicology -- 7. Perfumer creation : the role of the perfumer / Les Small -- 7.1. Soap -- 7.2. Shampoo -- 7.3. Shower and bath gel -- 7.4. Antiperspirant -- Reference -- 8. Measurement of fragrance perception / Anne Churchill -- 8.1. Introduction -- 8.2. Market research -- 8.3. Sensory analysis -- 8.3.1. Threshold -- 8.3.2. Intensity -- 8.3.3. Quality -- 8.3.3.1. Qualitative descriptive analysis -- 8.3.3.2. Odour profiling -- 8.3.4. Statistical techniques -- 8.3.4.1. Multidimensional scaling -- 8.3.4.2. Principal component analysis -- 8.4. Multisensory approach -- 8.5. Psychology of perfume -- 8.6. The business scents brief -- 8.6.1. Definition of the appropriate odour area -- 8.7. Analysis of ingredients to convey the appropriate odour characteristics -- 8.8. Creating fragrances for the future -- References.

9. The application of fragrance / Judi Beerling -- 9.1. The role of the applications department -- 9.2. Product formulations -- 9.2.1. Fine fragrance -- 9.2.2. Vegetable soap -- 9.2.3. Aerosol antiperspirant -- 9.2.4 Shampoo -- 9.2.5. Shower and bath gel -- 9.3. Stability testing -- 9.3.1. Humidity testing -- 9.3.2. Light testing -- 9.3.3. Assessment and reporting of results -- References -- 10. The safety and toxicology of fragrances / Steve Meakins -- 10.1. Introduction -- 10.2. Self regulation -- 10.3. Safety assessment -- 10.4. Skin irritation -- 10.5. Skin sensitisation -- 10.6. Photoeffects -- 10.7. Neurotoxicity -- 10.8. Reproductive effects -- 10.9. Natural ingredients -- 10.10. Conclusions -- References -- 11. Volatility and substantivity / Keith D. Perring -- 11.1. Perfume creation and physical chemistry -- 11.2. Perfume ingredient volatility -- 11.3. Perfume polarity -- 11.4. Substantivity and retention -- 11.5. Conclusions -- References.

12. Natural product analysis in the fragrance industry / Robin Clery -- 12.1. Introduction -- 12.2. Natural product analysis -- 12.2.1. The traditional approach -- 12.2.2. The headspace approach -- 12.3. Analytical techniques used in the fragrance industry -- 12.3.1. Extraction -- 12.3.2. Gas-liquid chromatography -- 12.3.2.1. GC injection systems -- 12.3.2.2. GC columns -- 12.3.2.3. GC detectors -- 12.3.3. Preparative liquid chromatography -- 12.4. Positive identification -- 12.5. Headspace collection -- 12.6. The future -- References -- 13. Chemoreception / Charles Sell -- 13.1. Why have a sense of smell? -- 13.2. Measuring smell -- 13.3. Cell wall structure -- 13.4. Proteins involved in signal generation -- 13.5. Anatomy of smell -- 13.6. Signal generation -- 13.7. The combinatorial nature of odour perception -- 13.8. Signal processing -- 13.9. Implications for odorant design -- References.

14. The search for new ingredients / Karen Jenner -- 14.1. Introduction -- 14.2. The need -- 14.3. The search -- 14.3.1. Clues from nature -- 14.3.2. Serendipity -- 14.3.3. Synthesis of analogues -- 14.4. Computer-aided design -- 14.4.1. Ligand-olfactory receptor modelling -- 14.4.2. Structure-activity relationships -- 14.4.2.1. The Hansch approach -- 14.4.2.2. Pattern recognition -- 14.4.2.3. Conformational analysis and the olfactophore approach -- 14.4.3. Conformational analysis on small data sets -- 14.5. Summary -- Acknowledgements -- References -- 15. Buying fragrance ingredients and selling fragrance compounds / David H. Pybus -- 15.1. Buying -- 15.1.1. Categorisation of suppliers and materials -- 15.1.1.1. Supplier relationships -- 15.1.1.2. Nature of material -- 15.1.2. Procurement organisation -- 15.2. Sales and marketing -- 16. The finale : brief submission / Les Small -- Appendix I. Some of the more important natural fragrance materials -- Appendix II. Useful addresses.

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